Dress by Ariga Torosian which pays tribute to the architecture of Azadi Tower in Tehran.

Emerging Fashion Designers from Armenia Gain Recognition, Make it Work

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YEREVAN — They’re young, hip and environmentally informed. They mix East and West, minimalism with decorative, artisanal flourishes. Armenia’s top designers are strutting their stuff on Europe’s runways and creating bold, hand-made wearable fashion for both men and women. From one of the oldest civilizations in the world, comes some of its newest creators. Leading brands by designers of Armenian origin are nothing new, from French-Armenian icons Stéphane Kélian, Alain Mikli and Karine Arabian, to Lebanese-born wunderkind Krikor Jabotian and Milan’s Serapian luxury bags, to name a few.

But today some of the boldest Armenian designers hail from the Republic of Armenia itself, a small country that positively oozes fashion sense.

A New York City friend who works in fashion recently waxed poetic about “the most amazing Dahjeli store” that he serendipitously stumbled upon on his way to meet a friend for coffee in Yerevan.

Another colleague told me she has worn a necklace I brought back from Gyumri every night out this month.

Part of the Armenian story here has to do with quality. Unlike some fashion capitals such as Paris, Milan or New York, where the emphasis is often on the bottom line and mass production, the designers profiled here tend to make things the old-fashioned way. Yerevan designers employ a small team of master tailors or fashion their own creations themselves. It’s Couture with an Armenian twist, though there is nothing folksy or rustic about their work.

Dress by Ariga Torosian

Like Armenia itself, the country’s top fashion designers are hip, modern, sophisticated. Elegant deconstructed tops in black and white: diaphanous chemises and delicate hand-made shoes; baggy open slit black pants worn with a beige shirt top and wave design.

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Everything Ariga Torosian makes has a little bit of magic to it. She takes a simple shape and tweaks it, adding a new line or detail that sets the piece on end. She uses light textures to reflect both the lived and natural environment, with a particular affection for all things architectural.

Daring designs include a black skirt design that seems to float on air with an open front, worn over black heels with leather straps tied around the ankle. Clean, modern and sophisticated. It’s a memorable look, one whose shape remarkably mimics Torosian’s favorite piece of architecture, Tehran’s Azadi Tower.

Torosian’s brand and identity are, according to her, “inspired by the roots and vision of places where I have lived, mainly Iran and Armenia. You can see these footprints in each collection.”

The rigor and quality of her lines display the time and the know-how that go into fashioning each piece. This underscores what the designer calls “the solid roots and culture of the past, compared to our fragile times today.”

No trip to Yerevan would be complete without a stop at 20 Marshal Baghramyan Avenue and the gorgeous CONE store, where Ariga sells her work along with another talented designer, Sona Hakobyan and her SONCESS brand.

Sweater by LOOM Weaving

LOOM Weaving

Inga Manukyan founded LOOM Weaving, a unique Armenian knitwear brand with her sister, Elen, in 2014. The brand successfully revives centuries-old handmade techniques. Its mission: to find a contemporary, new take on the design, development, and creation of Armenian knitwear production.

To wit, each item created mixes handmade knitting techniques with thoroughly modern machinery-designed patterns and colors.

The results, according to Zoe Magazine, are fashions “cosy and cute, bold and bright, ultra-fashionable and fabulous.”

Manukyan draws her greatest inspiration from traditional Armenian carpet weaving, which she studied at the Yerevan Academy of Fine Arts. Her designs reflect the same love of color, nature and line: Other noteworthy designs include a long sleeveless black dress that hints at skin underneath through its delicate knit screen pattern or below, the strapless white shabby chic dress that flows longingly to the ground.

Not surprisingly, Manukyan most favors Elsa Schiaparelli among the great designers. Interestingly enough, the woman who actually designed and knitted Schiaparelli’s gorgeous knit sweaters in the 1930’s, Aroosiag Mikaëlian, was an Armenian Genocide survivor.

Everything at LOOM Weaving is handmade using natural raw products. Says Manukyan: “I get inspiration from colors, interlacing yarns and handcrafted knitting techniques that I use in a modern style”

Dress by LOOM Weaving

Mischa Simonyan

By the time the Ijevan-born standout graduated fashion school in Paris, Mischa Simonyan already had three runway shows and several lines under his belt. Posh handbags, flowing silk scarves, elegant dresses, and men’s wear reminiscent of the Antwerp 6: this designer can seemingly do it all. He takes traditional Greek and Armenian mythology, for example, and abstracts a shape that embellishes a collar or sleeve on an otherwise sleek, contemporary look. His Aragil scarf uses Armenia’s national symbol the white stork to advantage, whether worn around the neck or more suggestively wrapped around one’s chest: Currently Simonyan makes all his clothes by hand, whether in his small home atelier in Ijevan or in his Paris apartment. He creates suede and leather handbags in grey or royal red that would look just at home in a science fiction flick as in a chic Parisian café.

Bag by Mischa Simonyan

Lined in rich suede of the same color, the red version recalls Han Chinese elegance.

Simonyan is also that rara vis, a designer fully engaged with the world beyond fashion. Born with a disability that affects his mobility, Mischa is positioning himself as a leading advocate for disability rights, using his platform to raise awareness and promote inclusivity, as the fashion industry becomes ever more engaged in social issues such as downcycling, recycling and sustainability.

Inspired by his idol Coco Chanel, Simonyan’s twentysomething eyes are set on using fashion to help change the world.

Other Armenian standouts to look out for include Anjel Darchinyan and her popular Dahjeli brand, whose simple, chic sleekness gives a nod to Jil Sander and Calvin Klein; sustainable designers Ruzanna Vardanyan/Ruzané and Nelly Serobyan; and rising under-30 star Anahid Sarian.

For fun hand-embroidered men’s shorts, relaxed pants and sexy beaded accessories, be sure to check out Man in Town, designed by Armen Galyan. A 2023 Vogue Italia article also singled out Hagop Shahinian and Armine Ohanyan as well as fab menswear designer Erika Chilingaryan/Platon FF as standouts from Yerevan Fashion Week 2023.

Scarf by Mischa Simonyan

Watching over all this wonderfully eclectic Yerevan-based talent are Vahan Khachatryan and an amazing fashion den mother of sorts, Elen Manukyan. Together, the duo heads up the all-powerful Fashion and Garment Chamber of Armenia. The chamber and its team of eight people also produce Yerevan Fashion Week annually.

The 2024 edition will take place this coming November 8-10 in several locations, including the 100,000 square-foot Meridian Expo & Event Center.

The Chamber also keeps an up-to-date website of over forty top designers including bios and all relevant links—the perfect launching point for anyone interested in Armenian fashion.

The main challenge for Manukyan and her designers lies in making their designs cost-effective. Armenia is a small market and shipping designs internationally can be prohibitively expensive: “Logistics, fabrics, marketing/promotion and import/export formalities are challenging,” explains Manukyan.

On the flip side, Armenian designers are a great investment for anyone looking to support talented designers without the large capital investments required to launch brands in Europe or America. Hopefully Armenian designers will soon become better known internationally, with Yerevan serving as a dynamic regional fashion hub.

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