Erebuni Fortress site

Erebuni Fortress: The Neglected Crown of Armenia

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By Mariam Pashayan

Special to the Mirror-Spectator

High on the Arin Berd hill in the southern corner of Yerevan, only a few blocks away from the neighborhood called Nor Aresh, stands the Erebuni Fortress. This ancient Urartian stronghold is an echo of the past, and the unknown future.

I spent the first eleven years of my life in the vibrant little neighborhood of Nor Aresh. Nor Aresh was more than a place – it was a community shaped by stories, survival and resilience. Both of my grandparents, along with their families, returned to Armenia after World War II, during the repatriation movement. They met, got married, and built their first home in that very neighborhood, laying its foundations with their own hands. They used to tell us stories about how, back then, the fortress hadn’t been officially discovered. Locals would collect stones from the hillside and bring it home to use in constructions, unaware they were handling pieces of ancient history. Archaeologists and local authorities only later began to take an interest in it.

Erebuni Fortress was founded in 782 B.C. by King Argishti I of Urartu. It served as an important fortress and city, playing an iconic role in Urartu’s history as a symbol of civilization, engineering, and strategic power. The fortress served military, religious and cultural ambitions. Its name gave birth to modern Yerevan.

At Erebuni Fortress (photo Mariam Pashayan)

According to a UNESCO website: “The first investigations at Erebuni began in the 1890s through the efforts of Russian scholars A. Ivanovskij and M. Nikolskij. However, systematic excavations only commenced in 1950, led by Armenian and Russian archaeological expeditions. During the initial year of excavations, the team uncovered an Urartian cuneiform inscription, and later additional inscriptions, all of which chronicled the construction of the city. These inscriptions provide invaluable insight into the urbanization efforts of Argishti I and his vision for Erebuni as a stronghold in the heart of the Urartian Kingdom.” (https://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/6809/)

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And yet today, few tourists visit, and even fewer are aware of the history, and its importance.

“There are plans of restoration. And we believe that such projects should be carefully considered by specialists, since Erebuni is the visiting card of Yerevan, and this is the case when we do not have a right for any mistakes…”  Miqayel Badalyan has said.

Badalyan is the former director of the Erebuni Historical and Archeological Museum. Because of his professional efforts he received great amount of support from France, Russia and a few other European countries. He was able to secure funding avenues for the museum’s restoration project and created strong ties with historical communities outside of Armenia. Unfortunately, his honest and strong leadership was not evaluated fairly because it didn’t align with the current government’s geopolitical interests.

Thousands of people every day in the year travel to Rome to see its Colosseum. They journey to China to walk the Great Wall, and to Egypt to stand before the timeless pyramids. These monuments have been preserved and today they tell the story of great civilizations, and the world listens.

Modern sculpture near the entrance to Erebuni Fortress (photo Mariam Pashayan)

When I visited Erebuni fortress and the museum, I was shocked to see only a few tourists and a neglected historical site. There was no leadership present, no tour guide, and only two rooms were showcasing the archeological findings. It seemed like the museum was under renovation, and it felt like it was forgotten and neglected. I immediately started comparing this with all the other great historical sites and how many people spend money to see those sites. In that moment, I felt shame as an Armenian and felt powerless.

I didn’t know what I could do to make a difference. Writing about this is the only way I could express how on a quiet hill in Yerevan, the ancient stones of Erebuni, a historical landmark older than Rome, stand quietly. What should be a national symbol of pride has become a symbol of missed opportunity.

Erebuni could become a tourism magnet. Increased tourism can stimulate local economic activity by generating demand for guides, hospitality services, transportation, and cultural events. This can potentially create jobs in the surrounding neighborhoods and encourage small business growth such as cafes, restaurants and boutique shops.

As Armenia works to rebuild its economy and heal from the wounds of war, cultural heritage is often pushed aside in favor of modern development. Often politics interferes with history, but the ancient stones of places like Erebuni hold more than history. They represent cultural pride, potentially uplift morale and create jobs. Erebuni Fortress can become one of the iconic historic destinations of the world.

(Mariam Pashayan is the publisher of a cookbook called Cooking with My Armenian Family. Although her background is not in journalism or communication, she loves writing and her passion is Armenia. She was born and raised in Yerevan until eleven years old but left Armenia before collapse of Soviet Union. Mariam grew up in Los Angeles, got married, and became the proud mother of two young men.)

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