Cookie + Kate’s Epic Baba Ganoush (Photo courtesy Cookie + Kate)

Cookie + Kate’s Epic Baba Ganoush

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In The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Claudia Roden, Egyptian-born British cookbook writer and cultural anthropologist of Sephardi/Mizrahi descent, describes baba ghanoush as “exciting and vulgarly seductive” — possibly one of the best compliments anything could have.

“The origins of baba ghanoush (or ganoush) are unknown, although medieval Arabic manuscripts indicate that the passion for eggplants dates back to at least the 13th century. It appears in many guises throughout the Middle East, sometimes under its alternative name, moutabel. A Lebanese version omits the tahini, while in parts of Syria yogurt replaces it. The dish’s essential smoky flavor comes from grilling eggplant over hot coals or baking it in a hot oven until it simply collapses, making the flesh easy to blend with the other ingredients. It is served chilled or at room temperature with vegetables, pita or other kinds of flatbread.”

“Eastern Arabian cuisine versions of the dish vary slightly from those of the Levant by spicing it with coriander and cumin; those versions might be minimally spiced and topped with thinly chopped parsley or coriander leaves. In Armenia, the dish is known as mutabal. The essential ingredients in Armenian mutabal are eggplant, tahini, garlic, lemon, and onion; and most Armenians also add cumin. In Syria, the dish is often mixed with sheep cheese, which turns it into a creamier dish.”

Food writer and historian Gil Marks writes in his book: “Israelis learned to make baba ghanouj from the Arabs.” An Israeli variant, salat ḥatzilim, is made with fried or grilled eggplants mixed with mayonnaise, salt, lemon and chopped fried onions. It is usually topped with olive oil when served.

No one knows more about wholesome, sustainable food than Kathryne Taylor at one of America’s most popular vegetarian food blogs, Cookie + Kate. With Love Real Food, her cookbook published in 2017, she offers over 100 delicious meatless recipes complete with substitutions to make meals special, diet-friendly (gluten-free, dairy-free, and egg-free), whenever possible. “This recipe is easy to make (no food processor required). When you get it right, baba ghanoush is smooth and luxurious, smoky, and savory. You will need eggplant, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and spices. Making baba ghanoush is a similar process to making hummus. You are basically exchanging the chickpeas called for in hummus for roasted eggplant,” she says.

“That makes baba ghanoush a great party appetizer for guests who are following special diets — as long as your accompaniments fit the bill. I like to serve my baba ghanoush with sturdy raw veggies like carrot sticks, cucumber rounds and bell pepper sticks. Toasted pita wedges or pita chips are great, too,” she adds. “For a full Mediterranean spread, serve this dish with herbed hummus or tahini sauce and fresh salads. I recommend Mediterranean bean salad, my favorite quinoa salad, or tabbouleh.”

Roasted eggplants (Photo courtesy Cookie + Kate)

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Ingredients:

4 pounds Italian eggplants (about 4 small-to-medium eggplants)

4 medium cloves of garlic, pressed or minced

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste

1/2 cup tahini

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing the eggplant and garnish

4 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus extra for garnish

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, to taste

Pinch of smoked paprika, for garnish

 

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the upper third of the oven. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper to prevent the eggplant from sticking to the pan.

Halve the eggplants lengthwise and brush the cut sides lightly with olive oil. Place them in the prepared pan with the halved sides down. Roast the eggplant until the interior is very tender throughout and the skin is collapsing, about 35 to 40 minutes (this might take longer if you are using 1 large eggplant). Set the eggplant aside to cool for a few minutes. Flip the eggplants over and scoop out the flesh with a large spoon, leaving the skin behind.

Place a mesh strainer over a mixing bowl, then transfer the flesh to the strainer and discard the skins. Pick out any stray bits of eggplant skin and discard. You want to remove as much moisture from the eggplant here as possible, so let the eggplant rest for a few minutes and shake/stir the eggplant to release more moisture.

Discard all of the eggplant drippings, drain and wipe out the bowl, and place the eggplant into the bowl. Add the garlic and lemon juice to the eggplant and stir vigorously with a fork until eggplant breaks down. Add the tahini to the bowl and stir until it is incorporated. While stirring, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Continue stirring until the mixture is pale and creamy, and use your fork to break up any particularly long strings of eggplant.

Stir in the parsley, salt and cumin. Add more salt, if needed, and more lemon juice, if you’d like a tart flavor. Transfer the baba ghanoush to a serving bowl and drizzle olive oil on top. Sprinkle parsley and smoked paprika on top. This dish is also great on sandwiches.

Recipe yields about 1 3/4 cups (enough to serve 4 to 6 as an appetizer).

Recipe roughly adapted from Serious Eats and Tori Avey.

Note: Eggplant selection: Large eggplants tend to contain more seeds, which can produce a bothersome texture. So, it’s better to use 2 small eggplants that weigh about 2 pounds total, rather than 1 large. Choose eggplants that are shiny and smooth (no mushy parts), and feel heavy for their size. Turn your eggplant into baba ghanoush promptly, since overripe eggplant tastes more bitter.

Storage suggestions: Leftover baba ghanoush can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for about 4 days. (This recipe is best served fresh, but some say it tastes better after a day or two). Kathryne likes to let her leftover baba ghanoush warm to room temperature before serving, but others prefer it chilled. For a lighter dip: Reduce the olive oil to as little as 2 to 3 tablespoons. Your dip won’t be as rich and creamy, but it will still be very good.

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Each recipe offers special diet labels for the following categories, as applicable. The recipes offer simple dietary substitutions/modifications whenever possible (all thoroughly tested).

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To order, go to: https://cookieandkate.com/love-real-food-cookbook/

For this recipe, go to: https://cookieandkate.com/epic-baba-ganoush-recipe/

For all recipes, go to: https://cookieandkate.com/recipes/

For “Babaganoush: The celebration of the Eggplant by Chef Dondari,” see: https://dondarijc.wordpress.com/2013/09/08/babaganoush-the-celebration-of-the-eggplant/

See Lebanese Recipes at: https://homemade-recipes.blogspot.com/2008/08/baba-ghanoush.html

See Blanche Shaheen’s recipe at: https://feastinthemiddleeast.com/2017/11/29/baba-ghanoush-a-story-of-love/

See Ellen Whitney’s Vegan Baba Ganoush at: http://healthtastesgood.co/vegan/baba-ganoush/

See Inspired Taste’s version at: https://www.inspiredtaste.net/24825/baba-ganoush-recipe-roasted-eggplant-dip/

Also see:

https://miri-thegreatcookeryadventure.blogspot.com/2012/10/baba-ghanoush-my-way.html

https://sharingthefoodwelove.wordpress.com/2014/04/21/baba-ghanoush/

https://cookswithoutborders.com/new-story/2020/2/22/baba-ganoush-obsession-chasing-optimal-smokiness-and-perfect-proportions-weve-landed-on-brilliant-baba

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2013/sep/25/how-to-make-perfect-baba-ganoush

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