SVARANTS, Armenia — On a recent Sunday morning, a woman receives a blessing from a priest at the Tatev Monastery, the walls echoing with the Surb Surb hymn. Someone else is there with his son light a candle. The cable car passes through a blue winter sky, which immediately reminds one of Ruben Vardanyan, who financed this project. Next to the church, dehydrated fruits and herbs such as thyme, chamomile and rose hip teas, honey, knitted toys, and various souvenirs are sold.
In another corner, a woman is repairing the priest’s vest. The priest didn’t dare to throw it away because it was a gift and he asked this woman to repair it.
Knowing that I wasn’t a tourist, she didn’t offer me any shopping but suggested to catch up with Dmitri, who sells almost the same things next to her, but Dmitri’s stall is poor. I have known him since childhood; he was my grandmother’s neighbor in our village in Vaghuhas, Martakert Region, in Artsakh (Karabakh). Now he collects whatever nature offers him from the forests around Tatev and sells them next the church. Although we were talking about other things, it seemed as if we were asking each other with our eyes: “Where we are and why are we ended up here?” Dmitri says he has barely made 1,000 drams a day ($2) this season and is waiting for the tourist to come in the summer.
The knitting woman suspects that refugees from Artsakh will not settle in Svarants village, located 4 kilometers from the Tatev Monastery in Syunik Province. “Who will agree to live there?” she asks with a sigh.

Uliyana
“When we forced to left Karabakh in 2023, my husband decided: ‘We’ll make a quick stop in Armenia and move to Russia, it’s non-negotiable.’ But the people welcomed us here so warmly that we decided to stay. My husband even ‘went spying’ there, but when he returned, he said, ‘no, it’s not a place to live there.’ Anyway, many from my fellow villagers have left for Russia. Some are coming back, others are staying. Russia is not what it was before the war in Ukraine. That’s why many are returning. What should they do, go from one war to another? I personally know that two families from my native village have returned,” said Uliyana from Maghavuz, Martakert, whose family settled in Svarants, part of the Tatev community.





