Exterior of the Armenian Church of Iași (Biserica Armeană Sfânta Născătoare). The church is located at 22 Armeană Street in Iași, and was restored in 1803. (photo Larry Luxner)

Despite Historic Welcome, Romania’s Armenians Yearn for 1915 Genocide Recognition

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By Larry Luxner

DUMBRĂVENI, Romania — Dominating the main square of this sleepy Transylvanian town 20 kilometers west of Sighișoara — home of the fictional Count Dracula — an Armenian church stands witness to the ravages of time.

Exterior of the Biserica Armeano-Catolica St. Elisabeta, an Armenian Catholic church in Dumbrăveni, a town in Romania’s Transylvania region (photo Larry Luxner)

Known as the Biserica Armeano-Catolica St. Elisabeta, the Baroque granite-and-brick structure bears this Latin inscription: “He who loved God built this cathedral between 1766 and 1791, with seven altars and three types of stained glass, for us, who live in the present, and for future generations.”

Like the church itself, which seems badly in need of restoration, the community it was built to serve does not have much of a future.

About 500 ethnic Armenians once lived here, but today, Dumbrăveni is home to maybe half a dozen. Across the plaza is a pink monastery that now houses a grocery store and bakery. Nobody in town can read the delicate Armenian script carved above the former monastery’s entrance.

The former Mechitarist monastery in Dumbrăveni, Romania (photo Attila Puskás)

“That community mostly disappeared after 1920, because Transylvania became part of Romania and they spoke Hungarian. So most decided to emigrate to Hungary,” said Attila Kálmán, vice-president of the Armenian-Hungarian Cultural Association of Târgu Mureș. “Only the old buildings and the cemetery are left — and all the tombstones are in Hungarian.”

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This story is repeated to varying degrees throughout Romania, where before World War II the country was home to nearly 70,000 Armenians. But during the Ceaușescu dictatorship, most of them emigrated to Europe and the Americas. Today, no more than 4,000 remain, says Varujan Vosganian, president of the Bucharest-based Union of Armenians in Romania.

The Armenian Church of Iași (Biserica Armeană Sfânta Născătoare). The church is located at 22 Armeană Street in Iași, and was restored in 1803. (photo Larry Luxner)

In fact, Romania’s Armenian ethnic community is Europe’s oldest, dating back to 950. Nearly a millennium later, in 1919, Romania was also one of the first nations in the world to accept refugees from the Armenian Genocide. And in 1991, it became the world’s first country to recognize Armenian independence following the collapse of the USSR.

Plaque outside the Armenian Church of Iași (Biserica Armeană Sfânta Născătoare). The church is located at 22 Armeană Street in Iași, and was restored in 1803. (photo Larry Luxner)

Yet Bucharest has resisted officially recognizing the Ottoman Turkish massacre of up to 1.5 million Armenians between 1915 and 1923 as a genocide, a step neighboring Bulgaria and 33 other countries have already taken.

“Romania is a paradox. On one hand, our community is well respected. To be Armenian here is a title of honor; no other country gives its Armenian community similar rights,” Vosganian said. “But when it comes to the genocide, Romanian political parties are not for or against. They abstain.”

The chapels on Mount Csobot near Gheorgheni: at left is the Roman-Catholic church, while at right is the Armenian-Catholic church (photo Attila Puskás)

Vosganian, 67, attributes this to what he calls the “Turkish complex” — a psychological aversion to offending the government in Ankara.

“The Turks were a dominant empire here for 400 years, but the economic influence of Turkish capital is not so great as to influence the government. I think it’s a lack of courage,” he said. “That’s why they don’t want to introduce this issue in parliament.”

In fact, Vosganian said his fellow lawmakers avoided the debate entirely until 2019, when US lawmakers passed a resolution labeling as genocide what happened to the Armenians more than a century earlier. Two years ago, Joe Biden became the first US president to say so publicly.

“After the US recognition, they organized a discussion in the Romanian parliament and produced some statements,” Vosganian said. “They were full of compassion and respect for the victims, but they didn’t pronounce the word ‘genocide.’ Israel is the same, by the way.”

Vosganian, who has a PhD in economics, served in parliament until 2020 and was also the country’s minister of economy and finance for a time. Besides heading the Union of Armenians, he’s also president of the Union of Writers. In addition, he was also an Armenian language teacher and in 1978 created a private Sunday school for ethnic Armenians.

Today, he said only 5% of the descendants of the 1915 genocide speak fluent Armenian, though nearly all of the more recent post-Soviet arrivals do.

Visit of an Armenian delegation from the town of Tashir to Romania

“We have newspapers in Armenian, and the Mass in church is Armenian,” he said. “In Iran or Syria, where mixed marriages between Muslims and Christians are forbidden, the Armenians have preserved their mother tongue because they all have their own schools. But in Romania, we have lots of mixed marriages, so most Armenians were born to mixed families.”

Sergey Minasyan is deputy director of the Caucasus Institute, a Yerevan-based think tank. From 2017 to 2023, he was Armenia’s ambassador to Romania. During Minasyan’s tenure, a national census showed only 2,000 to 3,000 ethnic Armenians living in the country.

The community, he said, dates from the 10th century, following the collapse of the medieval Bagratid Armenian kingdom, which had its capital at Ani in present-day Turkey. Some fled to Crimea and western Ukraine, and others to northern Romania and southern Poland.

Ancient Armenian graffiti is still visible at the Quarantine of Gyimes, which sits at the former border between Transylvania and Moldova (photo Attila Puskás)

“In the 17th and 18th centuries, some Armenians from Moldova emigrated to Transylvania,” said Minasyan. “They established four cities but had to convert to Catholicism because of the Austrian Empire and the huge influence of Hungarians. They also became Hungarian-speaking.”

The chapels on Mount Csobot near Gheorgheni: at left is the Roman-Catholic church, while at right is the Armenian-Catholic church (photo Attila Puskás)

The world’s largest Armenian Catholic church is located in Gherla, a city of 20,000 which until 1843 was known as Armenopolis. Another center of Armenian Catholic life was Gheorgheni, in Harghita County. Yet at last count, no more than 600 Armenian Catholics remain in Romania.

An information plaque in Romanian, English, Armenian and Hungarian explains the history of the chapels of Gheorgheni Pass and the area’s Armenian heritage. (photo Attila Puskás)

Today, the association Kalman heads is strictly a cultural group with no political influence. Its main activity is organizing Armenian festivals and literary presentations; the next one will take place September 26-28 in nearby Târgu Mureș.

Bucharest has had an Armenian presence since the late 14th century, and today is home to the largest of Romania’s 22 Armenian churches.

Located at 43 Carol I Boulevard, the Biserica Armenească — dedicated to the archangels Michael and Gabriel — was consecrated on September 6, 1915, and doubles as the headquarters of the Union of Armenians in Romania. In addition, the capital city’s Armenian Museum contains ancient relics such as handwritten manuscripts dating to 1351, a Book of Psalms from 1596 and an Armenian Bible printed in Amsterdam in 1666.

Vosganian said that in 1923, four years after its formation, the Union of Armenians opened an orphanage for 200 children whose parents had been killed by the Ottomans. They were brought from Damascus, Beirut and Aleppo, and within three years, all had been placed with local Armenian families willing to take them in.

“Unfortunately, when the Red Army came to Romania in 1944 and the communist regime became the ruling government, the union closed all its branches and activities,” he said. “From 1945 to 1989, the Armenian community didn’t have any ethnic organization except the churches. The only minorities with political representation in the so-called parliament were the Hungarians and the Germans. And after the first decade of communism, the Germans emigrated.”

The Armenian presence in Romania quickly shrank following the nationalization of all private companies. This hit the Armenians particularly hard since many of them were wealthy factory owners, industrialists and entrepreneurs.

Nevertheless, one of Romania’s most important art museums was founded in 1947 by an Armenian businessman, Krikor Zambaccian. It was eventually closed by the Ceaușescu regime in 1977 but reopened in 1992 as a branch of the Romanian National Museum of Art. Located near Dorobanților Square, it houses over 300 objects of art including works by French painters Renoir, Cezanne and Matisse.

Varujan Pambukhchyan, a member of Romania’s parliament since 1996, not only represents ethnic Armenians but also heads the parliamentary committee overseeing all 20 of the country’s officially recognized ethnicities.

“This representation mechanism is a very old one,” he explained. “Since 1919, when the Romanian government decided to accept Armenian refugees, we have been represented in parliament — even in communist times — with only one exception: World War II.”

Besides Armenians, 19 other minorities enjoy similar representation including Albanians, Roma, Bulgarians, Czechs, Greeks, Italians, Jews, Poles, Russians, Serbs, Turks and Ukrainians.

Pambukhchyan said that given the high level of Turkish investment in Romania as well as strong bilateral economic ties — with two-way trade exceeding $10 billion annually — Bucharest is unlikely to formally recognize the genocide anytime soon.

“Romania is one of the few EU countries that also has strategic partnerships with Turkey and Azerbaijan. And as a fellow NATO member bordering the Black Sea, Turkey’s political influence in Romania is really huge,” he said. “That doesn’t mean we aren’t doing anything to have the genocide recognized. But for now, it is still not possible.”

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