Spicy Bulgur and Nut Salad from Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean

Spicy Bulgur and Nut Salad from Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean

805
0

“Born in 1936 to an ancient Syrian-Jewish family in Cairo, Claudia Roden studied in London to become a painter before becoming engrossed by the stories and recipes of Britain’s expatriate Egyptian community. Thanks to a nanny from Italy (whose village is now in Slovenia), her first languages were Italian and French, She began teaching Middle Eastern cooking from her home, hosting the BBC series “Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean Cookery” and becoming a prolific food journalist and cookbook author. She is best known as the author of Middle Eastern cookbooks including A Book of Middle Eastern Food, a cookbook first published in 1968 that remains an important influence on top chefs around the world, The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, and Arabesque—Sumptuous Food from Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon and The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey From Samarkand to New York, which won a James Beard award.”

“In London, she shared a flat with her brothers Ellis Douek and Zaki Douek. While preparing meals for her brothers, she started to experiment with cooking. She remembered family recipes from Alphandary, pies with aubergine and spinach, and mint and lamb. Both were foods not often cooked in London in that period and so finding ingredients in London was an adventure. She did not return to Egypt for a quarter of a century, well after her family and most of Cairo’s Jewish community had been expelled; many of her books reflect her longing for the close communal culture that was lost, especially as expressed in the culinary arts and social occasions associated with them.”

“In Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean, readers will join her on a culinary journey across the Mediterranean, all from the comfort of your own dinner table. Widely credited with revolutionizing Western attitudes to Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food, Claudia is a living legend. Though best known for her deep dives into cuisines, in this timeless collection of simple, beautiful recipes, she shares the food she loves and cooks for friends and family. You’ll find tried-and-true favorites from France, Greece, and Spain to Egypt, Turkey, and Morocco, inspired by Claudia’s decades of travel and research throughout the region. The many flavors of the Mediterranean are highlighted in dishes such as Chicken with Apricots and Pistachios, Vegetable Couscous, Eggplant in a Spicy Honey Sauce with Soft Goat Cheese, Bean Stew with Chorizo and Bacon, Plum Clafoutis, and so many more.”

“From appetizers to desserts, Claudia distills a life’s worth of traveling and eating her way through the Mediterranean, presenting a selection of the recipes that she cooks the most often because they bring the most joy.”

“This is a Syrian dish, my family called it ‘bazargan’ because all the ingredients could be bought at the spice bazaar in Aleppo. It is substantial and filling and amazingly rich and tasty, with a variety of nuts, spices, and aromatics. It is easy to make for a lot of people, can be prepared in advance, and keeps perfectly well for days. There is no cooking because bulgur is wheat that has been boiled, dried, and then ‘cracked’ – it only needs soaking in boiling water, while all the aromatic ingredients are beaten together as a dressing. Serve as a first course with Greek yogurt or labneh. It can be served in a large bowl or rolled into balls the size of a walnut and cupped in Little Gem lettuce leaves,” says Ms. Roden. “Bazargan is traditionally eaten together with other meze; but it is filling and satisfying, so we often eat it as main course during summer lunches, accompanied by a simple tomato or cucumber salad.”

Much of Ms. Roden’s work has been an attempt to reconstruct the lost scents, sounds, tastes and feelings that flowered on the Cairo terrace of her childhood. Credit…Lauren Fleishman for The New York Times

Ingredients:

Get the Mirror in your inbox:

1 1/2 cups bulgur

1 2/3 cups lightly salted boiling water

7 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

Salt

Juice of 2 or 3 lemons

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons harissa or other hot pepper paste, to taste

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted

3/4 cup hazelnuts, lightly toasted

5 tablespoons pistachios, lightly toasted

7 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted

1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

Pomegranate seeds for garnish (optional)

 

Preparation:

Put the bulgur in a large bowl and pour the boiling water over it. Let soak for 30 minutes, until the grains are very tender. Stir occasionally so that the water is absorbed evenly.

Combine the olive oil with the pomegranate molasses and season with salt. Add the lemon juice, tomato paste, harissa, cumin, coriander, and allspice and beat vigorously with a fork until well blended. Pour over the bulgur and mix very well. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Coarsely chop the walnuts, hazelnuts, and pistachios. Add them to the bulgur, stir in the pine nuts and parsley; mix well. If you like, garnish with pomegranate seeds before serving.

Reprinted from Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean: Treasured Recipes from a Lifetime of Travel by Claudia Roden, copyright © 2021. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Photo courtesy of Ten Speed Press. As featured in edibleLA. See: https://www.ediblela.com/news/spicy-bulgur-and-nut-salad

 

Muhammara (Walnut and pomegranate paste)

“This walnut and pomegranate paste is a stunning deep-red color, and the flavor is rich and mildly hot. Use it as a dip or spread, with bread or grilled fish or chicken. Recipe from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden. Aleppo pepper will add richness to many dishes, from butternut gratin to flatbreads with spiced chicken, lentil soup to lamb kibbeh, bulgur pilaf to collard greens. Mix it into egg salad, or sprinkle it on pizza, too.”

 

Ingredients:

 

1-1/4 cups shelled walnuts

1-1/2 to 2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 slice whole wheat bread, crust removed, lightly toasted

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or a pinch of mild chile pepper)

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons sugar

Kosher salt, to taste

Preparation:

Blend all ingredients to a rough (not too smooth) paste in the food processor. Serves 6-8.

See: https://www.theperfectpantry.com/2008/03/aleppo-pepper.html

Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean: Treasured Recipes from a Lifetime of Travel

One of the most celebrated food historians and authorities of our time shares 100 of her personal favorite recipes from all around the Mediterranean. To order, go to:

https://www.amazon.com/Claudia-Rodens-Mediterranean-Treasured-Lifetime/dp/1984859749

https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671585/claudia-rodens-mediterranean-by-claudia-roden/

https://citylights.com/cooking-cookbooks/claudia-rodens-mediterranean-treasure/

For Roden’s recipes from The Guardian, see: https://www.theguardian.com/food/claudia-roden

For recipes in Epicurious, see: https://www.epicurious.com/contributors/claudia-roden

For recipes from The Splendid Table, see: https://www.splendidtable.org/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q=roden&button=

For a complete list of her books, see: https://www.amazon.com/Books-Claudia-Roden/s?rh=n%3A283155%2Cp_27%3AClaudia+Roden

See Roden’s YouTube video at: “Claudia Roden – Our food is our identity” (19/155) at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0-gOhx4ybY.

In this unique interview for Web of Stories – Life Stories of Remarkable People, Claudia Roden talks to her granddaughter Nelly Wolman about her life in food.

See: “Traveling the World for Recipes, but Always Looking for Home,” Famous for her scholarly works, the cookbook author Claudia Roden shows off her lyrical side with her latest, “Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean.”

Go to: https://www.nytimes.com/by/melissa-clark?page=7

Also:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/w3cswpmb

https://www.theguardian.com/food/2022/sep/26/claudia-roden-20-of-her-best-recipes-from-a-50-year-career

https://www.theguardian.com/food/2021/sep/19/claudia-roden-med-yotam-ottolenghi-jose-pizarro-sam-clark-recipes

https://www.splendidtable.org/bio/claudia-roden

https://cookswithoutborders.com/new-story/claudia-rodens-mediterranean

https://jewishjournal.com/culture/food/359914/tea-with-claudia-roden/

https://food52.com/blog/19228-claudia-roden-tells-her-immigrant-story

https://jwa.org/encyclopedia/article/roden-claudia

Get the Mirror-Spectator Weekly in your inbox: