Susan Jebejian’s Ararat Home Kadayif

Susan Jebejian’s Ararat Home Kadayif

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Kadayif (kadaif, kataifi) refers to shredded phyllo dough used to make a number of popular Middle Eastern desserts. Several varieties exist, including tel kadayıf, yassı kadayıf and ekmek kadayıf. This recipe by the late Susan Jebejian is filled with a rich cream and sweetened with simple syrup. The recipe is featured in Reflections of an Armenian Kitchen, a Special Collection of Favorite Recipes originally printed in 1995 by the Ladies Guilds of Ararat Home in Los Angeles. In the cookbook’s 8th edition from 2016, all recipes remain as they appeared in the previous printings from 1995 to 2008.

Susan was born in Istanbul and immigrated with her family to the United States in 1921. She grew up in Detroit and moved to Los Angeles in 1936. She and her beloved husband, Dick, were instrumental in the planning and building of the Ararat Home for the Armenian elderly in Los Angeles. She served as president and treasurer of the Ladies Auxiliary of the Home. She took great pride in the Home and the contributions of service and dedication the Jebejian family made to it. Susan, who passed away in 2011, was an active member of the St. James Armenian Apostolic Church in Los Angeles. She loved to cook and entertain, and was eager to volunteer her talents to the Ladies Guilds kitchen crew.

Kadayıf comes from the plural of the Arabic word “qatifah,” the plural for velvet. The same ingredient is called “kunafa” in Arabic, which refers to another dessert similar to kadayıf but stuffed with cheese. The name first appeared in an Ottoman translation of the Arabic cookbook Kitab al-Tabikh translated by Muhammed bin Mahmud Şirvani, a 15th century Ottoman physician. According to oral tradition in Diyarbakır, formerly Diyarbekir, the first kadayıf vendor in the city was an Armenian shop owner named Agop. (See Notes). A version filled with walnuts or pistachios flavored with cinnamon was traditionally served by the Sephardic Jewish community of Jerusalem during Rosh Hashanah and Purim.   

Ingredients: 

2 lbs. kadayif dough, completely thawed out and at room temperature (It is usually found in Middle Eastern stores and markets. Thaw properly before using. Place the box in the refrigerator the night before you will use it.) 

1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, melted 

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1 quart half and half 

2 pints whipping cream 

3/4 cup cornstarch 

3/4 cup milk 

  

Syrup: 

4 cups sugar 

3 cups water 

Few drops fresh lemon juice    

Preparation: 

Cut and fluff 1 lb. kadayif dough in a large bowl with hands. Add half the melted butter and mix until strands are evenly coated. Spread evenly in lightly buttered 13×17-inch baking sheet pan. 

Combine the half and half and heavy cream in large saucepan. Bring to slow boil over low heat.   

Combine the cornstarch and milk, stirring until cornstarch is dissolved. Slowly add to the cream mixture, stirring constantly, until mixture returns to a slow boil. Spread hot cream filling over kadayif in pan.   

Cut and fluff remaining 1 lb. of kadayif in the bowl. Add remaining melted butter and mix with hands until strands are evenly coated. Spread over the top of the cream layer, pressing down firmly to form an even surface. Place on lowest oven rack and bake at 450°F for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden. If not golden, move pan to top rack and bake 5 to 10 minutes longer. 

Prepare syrup: Combine sugar and water in a saucepan and boil 5 to 10 minutes, stirring. Add a few drops of lemon juice. Cool. Pour cold syrup evenly over kadayif as soon as it is removed from the oven. Allow the pastry to fully absorb the syrup and serve. Cut into squares.   

Makes 24-30 servings 

For this recipe, go to: https://obaozio.github.io/baozi/projects/rit/iste140/exercises/ice09/recipe2.html 

Note: A story in AL-MONITOR states that Diyarbakir owes its famous dessert, kadaif, to the 18th century Armenian population. “Turks, Greeks and Middle Easterners claim kadaif, a delicious dessert that can be made into different shapes. In the southeastern Turkish city of Diyarbakir, locals believe that the dessert was first baked in the Armenian houses of the cosmopolitan city in the 18th century.” See: https://www.facebook.com/armenianandmiddleeasterncooking/posts/10155385338595794/ 

https://armenianweekly.com/2020/09/09/dandeegeen-diaries-chapter-17-cream-khadaif/ 

The Ararat Home cookbook is dedicated to “the men and women who reside and are cared for at Ararat Home. They represent older men and women in this country who have a rich and interesting knowledge of traditional dishes from our Armenian heritage. Cookbooks are on sale for $30 each in the Ararat Home Gift Shop or can be ordered by writing to: info@ararathome.org or calling (818) 365-3000. Go to: https://ararathome.org/general-news/ararat-home-cookbook-in-its-8th-edition 

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