St. Mary Armenian Apostolic Church’s Armenian Bourma (Photo courtesy https://www.faistescourses.fr/bourma/)

St. Mary Armenian Apostolic Church’s Armenian Bourma

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According to Food & Wine, bourma is a rich, sticky, and sweet phyllo dough-based dessert studded with nuts and redolent with butter. In some ways, it may be similar to baklava, but it truly stands alone. Bourma is explicitly Armenian. Food & Wine defines bourma as “a phyllo-based dish filled with walnuts that is baked and then doused with sugar syrup.” The most interesting component about making bourma? It calls for a thin dowel, which in many instances is actually an “heirloom often passed down in Armenian families.” After brushing with nuts and melted butter, the uber-thin dough is rolled up with the dowel and then “scrunched” up, before being slid off and placed on a baking sheet.

Bourma’s signature look is “crispy and scrunched” according to a recipe shared by Food & Wine, and a Saveur story even calls them “accordion pastry.” Their recipe also calls for cinnamon and rosewater. Additionally, it mentions a variation on bourma called glore, which is bourma “curved into a circle before baking, then filled with more nuts in the center.” How delicious does that sound? While the flavors may vary slightly depending on the recipe, if you’re unable to eat nuts, then bourma unfortunately may not be the dessert for you.

This recipe was featured in a story by Polly Clingerman, cookbook author (The Kitchen Companion and Polly Clingerman’s Dinner Companion) and reporter about the many devoted members of the Women’s Guild at St. Mary Armenian Apostolic Church in Washington, D.C. It was published on November 3, 1993 in the Washington Post about the Guild’s Annual Food Festival recipes and advance food preparations. The Women’s Guild activities include various service projects for the parish: Annual Women’s Saints Day Celebration; fundraising activities such as the Annual Food Festival and Lenten Food Festival and Armenian Cultural and Christian educational programs.

The story began, “Every autumn for 44 years, the women of St. Mary Armenian Apostolic Church have plunged into a six-week frenzy of chopping and stirring and rolling and patting and baking that ends in four days of glorious eating: the buffet lunches and weekend dinners of the annual bazaar. Today, when the bazaar opens its doors for the 45th year, Washingtonians will throng buffet and carryout lines. Many will leave laden with jars and bowls of soups and spicy mixtures (the regulars bring empties), boxes and bags of pastries, meatballs and meat pies. And no wonder. The food is rich-flavored, but the cooks are quick to point out that Armenians don’t do much frying.”

(Makes about 50 to 60 pieces)

Ingredients:

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1 package phyllo dough, thawed and at room temperature

1 pound walnuts, finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

3 tablespoons sugar

8 ounces unsalted butter, melted and separated (discard the white milk solids)

The syrup:

2 cups sugar

1 cup water

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

 

Preparation:

Phyllo dough is typically sold frozen. Place your box of phyllo in the refrigerator overnight to gently thaw it before using.

In a bowl, mix the walnuts, cinnamon and sugar.

Set the pile of phyllo sheets on your work surface, covered with a very slightly damp towel so they don’t dry out while you work. Place one sheet of phyllo in front of you, with a long side facing you. Brush lightly with melted butter (you don’t have to cover every bit of surface). Top with a second sheet. Cover this with a thin layer of walnut mixture, leaving at least a 1/2-inch margin all around. Fold in the two short sides 1/2 inch. Lay the dowel along the long side near you, fold the edge over the dowel and start rolling loosely.

As you roll, brush the bottom side of the phyllo lightly with butter so the finished cylinder looks shiny. Don’t touch the dough or you’ll disturb the butter glaze. Now gently nudge the roll toward the center, first from one end, then from the other. It will shorten (like an accordion) by a couple of inches. Slide off the rod onto a baking sheet. Continue preparing and rolling sheets until all ingredients are used.

Bake the bourma in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until nicely golden. Cool. Cut in 1- or 2-inch lengths. Store tightly covered in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks. (Some of the cooks at church freeze their bourma at this point, some view this idea with horror — all assured Polly Clingerman that their bourma are excellent). The bazaar bourma have not been frozen.

For the syrup: Before serving (this can be the day before), mix sugar and lemon juice with 1 cup water in a small saucepan. Simmer for 10 minutes. Holding each piece of bourma with your fingers, dip each piece into the hot syrup, immersing it completely, then holding for a moment to drain. Place on a rack to drain or put directly on serving plate lined with a paper doily.

Note: The trick for bourma and baklava is to have syrup and pastry at different temperatures. If pastry is hot, syrup must be cold. If pastry is cold, have syrup hot.

This recipe originally appeared at:

 

THE ARMENIAN KITCHEN KLATCH

By Polly Clingerman

November 3, 1993

See: https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/food/1993/11/03/the-armenian-kitchen-klatch/0ff2bef1-5dd5-4ca7-962d-9a7414b2bbf0/?noredirect=on

 

St. Mary Armenian Apostolic Church

4125 Fessenden St. NW

Washington, DC 20016

Office: (202) 363-1923

Email: stmarychurchdc@gmail.com

Web: stmaryaac.org

https://www.facebook.com/stmaryarmenianchurchdc/

https://www.stmaryaac.org/women-guild

https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Religious-organization/St-Mary-Armenian-Church-Womens-Guild-DC-1586630194908400/

*Ruth M. “Polly” Clingerman is the author of 12 cookbooks, including Polly Clingerman’s Kitchen Companion and Polly Clingerman’s Dinner Companion: Glorious, Easy Meals in Less Than an Hour. Kitchen Companion, published by the American Cooking Guild in Gaithersburg, was nominated best cookbook for the 1995 James Beard Awards. She started writing in the mid-1980s, including food articles for the Washington Post, and did consulting work for The All New, All Purpose Joy of Cooking, published in 1997. She was a native of Lansing, Mich., and a graduate of Michigan State University. She received a degree in African affairs from the Sorbonne in France. She passed away in 2000. Her husband was John R. Clingerman, a retired Foreign Service Officer and former U.S. ambassador to Lesotho from 1979 to 1981, who passed away in 2004.

References:

https://www.foodandwine.com/cooking-techniques/in-praise-of-aunties-armenian-bourma-walnut-pastries

https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/bourma-armenian-phyllo-pastry-with-walnuts

https://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Bourma/

https://www.mashed.com/323575/what-is-bourma-and-how-do-you-make-it/

https://mirrorspectator.com/2019/09/12/guest-recipe-saghi-bourma-rolled-pastry-with-walnuts/

https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/food/1992/09/09/polly-clingermans-dinner-grace/4b2abf24-d831-415b-9eed-3426a004982d/

https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/local/2000/08/15/ruth-m-polly-clingerman-dies/061107f7-0420-40e6-a700-5034fd0bbf20/

https://www.amazon.com/stores/Polly-Clingerman/author/B001KCG0GK?ref=ap_rdr&store_ref=ap_rdr&isDramIntegrated=true&shoppingPortalEnabled=true

https://thearmeniankitchen.com/boorma-paklavas-deliciously-delicate/

https://www.faistescourses.fr/bourma/               

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