Shiragian Houses on Kınalıada

The Secret History of Kınalı, an Armenian Island off Constantinople

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By Garo Gumusyan

(Notes from the book Istanbul Islands, published in 1962 – quite old, but when it comes to history, does it matter whether the Peloponnesian Wars are told in 1962 or 2022?)

Off the coast of Constantinople, there are four islands which were called “Princes Islands” during the Byzantine Empire, named for being a favorite destination to exile nobility fallen from favor.

They are Prinkepos, Halki, Antigone and Prote in Greek, Büyükada, Heybeli, Burgaz, and our subject, Kınalı (full name Kınalıada) in Turkish.

Why is Kınalı called the Armenian Island? While, ethnically, Buyukada is heavily Jewish and Turkish populated, Heybeli Turkish and Burgaz Greek, Kınalı has been heavily populated by Armenians for at least the last two centuries with an interesting history dating back to the Byzantium.

But, before delving into its history, let’s take a brief look at the geological, geographical and climatic characteristics of the island. The first three islands have been blessed by pleasant, temperate climates, however, as we get to ours, being so close to the others, yet, it is cold and windy, not recommended for those with bronchitis. Geologically, rocky and pebbly. It is covered by bushes and scrubland. It serves as a tribute to us Armenians with our unique historic ability to settle at the wrong place and the wrong neighborhood wherever we’ve been throughout history. While the other pleasant islands are inhabited by Turks, Jews and Greeks, why would we pick the uninhabitable Kınalı? How could it be otherwise? Let’s not forget, it was the preferred destination for exile by the Byzantines.

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Speaking of exile, the island’s history gets quite interesting.

Incredibly, towards the end of the 12th century, the mostly French Crusaders attacked and plundered the island. The French plundering Kınalı? I don’t know, although I’m as much against looting and plundering as the next guy, as a born and raised islander, I felt a secret sense of pride at being deemed worthy of being plundered by the French. What times those must have been! Immediately after the French leave, whatever was left were plundered by the Venetians, unbelievable, so flattering.

The house where Garo Gumusyan was born in Kınalıada

In 1352, the Genoese defeated the combined Venetian and Byzantine fleets off the coast of Kınalı, meaning an epic naval battle took place in the very waters where I was fishing. And then, in 1412, the Ottoman Navy lost a naval battle to Manuel Komnenos, the Byzantine Emperor, off the coast of the island.

Going further back in history, it starts getting far more interesting for us Armenians, whereas Armenian-Byzantine Emperors and Warriors start showing up on the Island.

A Byzantine nobleman-warrior named General Vartanios established the first monastery on the island in 803. Vartan, of course, was an Armenian, known for his extreme bravery and winning every single battle he fought against the Arabs was a favorite son of the Empire. And that, as we all know, is not a good place to be in Byzantium. After various palace intrigues by his friends and enemies, his eyes were gouged out by Emperor Nikephoros, and died as a monk in a monastery he himself had built, located in the upper parts of the island.

Furthermore, it is believed that the tomb of the legendary Armenian Emperor Leo V (the Armenian Leo), who ruled Byzantium during 813-820, also known to be a rather cruel ruler himself,( to distinguish yourself as cruel among Byzantine Emperors is impressive), is also located near Vartan’s monastery.

Now we get to the more recent history of the first Armenians settling on the island.

According to the author, the first settlers were Armenians from Anatolia and Constantinople who were converted to the Anglican-Protestant faith by the British between 1830 and 1850.

The author states that this was a British political plot, however, with no clear explanation as to why.

In all fairness, it was around this time that, American Missionaries started appearing in Turkey, established Robert College and countless schools in Anatolia, with the distinct purpose of converting the Muslims, failed to do so, but, along the way, succeeded in converting the Armenians.

Meanwhile, hard though it may be to believe, in the 1840s, the island was again plundered by pirates.

Around this time, according to the Ottoman archives, the first registered owner of the island was the Greek Orthodox Patriarch Joannicius III of Constantinople. It is unknown whether he purchased or inherited it. and then… here comes the best part, in the author’s own words:

“But because the land registry records were either lost or didn’t exist, a few shrewd Armenians, noticing this, quickly bought the lands from the Ottoman treasury.”

Easier said than done, I, personally, am impressed.

So, all in all, an interesting book on the Armenian history of the island, except that towards the end of the book, when it comes to the section on famous people from the islands, I got a little depressed.

While there was a long list of notable, famous people from all three islands, none were Armenian.

How could this be? At a time of very notable Armenian Amiras, architects, writers, Nubar Pasha, Gulbenkian, Ottoman Foreign Minister Noradounkian, Finance Minister Kazazian, the Balyan architects, Hagop Baronian, Daniel Varoujan, Krikor Zohrab and even Komitas lived on the island for a while, but, that doesn’t count, I think.

Anyway… The fact that not one noteworthy person came out from such a heavily Armenian populated place reminded me of my Godmother, a scary woman during the times when Armenian Godmothers instilled both God’s and Mother’s fear in you, years of observing a new generation of Armenians, smug in their ignorance, totally disconnected from their ancestors and their achievements…..looking straight into my eyes and saying, “Kinaliyen mart chellar!” The way she looked into my eyes when she said “mart chellar”… I was a little offended then, but, now I understand.

 

Footnote:

While thinking about whether or not any notable person came out of the island, a memory of my mother came to my mind. World War II had started, Turkey, fully expecting to be attacked by Germany, had started a massive draft, my father, being caught in this hellish situation, was drafted to the army for the third time! They were living in Kinali, and my mother had just given birth to my oldest sister, Nivart. Alone, all by herself in this hellish winter landscape of Kinali. At that time, it so happens that historian Avram Galanti, people may google him, pretty famous in his own right, also lived in Kınalı. My mother, worried out of her mind, asks him what would happen with the war. Galanti says “Don’t worry Madame, the war will last only two weeks, the Soviets will collapse from within.” If Avram Galanti didn’t make it onto the list of important people, I think I understand why after this prediction, especially considering my mother waited five years for those two weeks to end…

(Garo Gumusyan is a New York-based architect.)

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