St. Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral on Armenia Street in Palermo, Buenos Aires (photo Aram Arkun)

Vibrant Argentine-Armenian Community Maintains Its Culture

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BUENOS AIRES — Argentina has the largest community of Armenians in South America and it is an active and influential segment of the Armenian diaspora. Visitors are always amazed when they come to Armenia Street, in the now trendy Palermo neighborhood of Buenos Aires, and see how many Armenian institutions are located there, one next to another, with Armenian flags waving in the air. In fact, many call this area called “pequena Armenia” or little Armenia.

Armenia Cultural Association Eduardo Seferian Headquarters (where the ARF and its various affiliated organizations have offices), on which reflections of St. Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral may be seen (photo Aram Arkun)

As in many other countries, the Armenian Church is at the heart of organized community life, with its administrative headquarters, Centro Armenio, and the Cathedral of St. Gregory the Illuminator, located on Armenia Street. The Primate of the Armenian Diocese of Argentina and Chile, Bishop Aren Shaheenian, provided information and perspectives on the community. (See an accompanying article on the Tekeyan Cultural Association and its newspaper Sardarabad here.)

Monument to the Armenian martyrs of 1915, built in 1961 in the courtyard of St. Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral of Buenos Aires (photo Aram Arkun)

While Chile is also part of his diocese, the community there is small, numbering around 3,000, the bishop said, and there is no church there, nor are there any Armenian institutions outside of a Hay Dun (Armenia House) gathering place. He or his clerics visit several times a year for services and events.

Bishop Aren Shaheenian

Born in Baghdad, Iraq, the 55-year-old clergyman was elevated to the rank of bishop last year. He was ordained a celibate priest in 2000 and after serving in Italy, Armenia, Great Britain and the Netherlands, in 2019 he came to Buenos Aires to become the pastor of St. Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral, the seat of the Armenian Diocese in Argentina. In December 2022 he became the Primate of the diocese. Unlike in North America, no administrative split occurred in the Armenian churches here, which are all under the jurisdiction of the Catholicos of All Armenians in Echmiadzin.

Bishop Aren Shaheenian at his office at the Diocese (photo Aram Arkun)

While there is no census of the Argentine Armenian population, Bishop Shaheenian declared that it is usually estimated at roughly 130,000-150,000, with a majority being the 4th-6th generations in the country. Consequently, he said: “Often you take a taxi and you start speaking with the driver and you see, as here the name of the taxi driver must be displayed by law, that the driver turns out to have an Armenian last name. When you ask him, he says no, it was my parents or grandparents who were Armenian. They immigrated. I am the 3rd or 4th generation. So through my name I am Armenian.”

The Armenian coat of arms at the top of the stage of the Siranoush Hall of the Armenian Center of the Diocese (photo Aram Arkun)

Such a person, perhaps 40 or 50 years old, does not say initially that he of Armenian descent, Bishop Shaheenian said. When pressed, he might recall that when his grandmother was alive, he would go to the Armenian Church and to events of organizations, and his family still remembers his grandmother and cooks certain foods. However, he married, for example, a Colombian woman, and his children married people of Italian descent, or others, so that, the bishop continued, the call of the blood no longer remains among them.

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As generations change, the Armenian language is lost, though the bishop did note that some after a certain age may return and want to bring their children or grandchildren to Armenian schools. “This is the tragedy of the entire diaspora,” he concluded.

There are a number of Armenian restaurants in the Palermo neighborhood of Buenos Aires, including Nani Cocina Armenian (photo Aram Arkun)

While most Armenians in Argentina came either directly from the Ottoman Empire or from intermediary stops in the Middle East or the Balkans after the Armenian Genocide, a new wave of immigrants came after the independence of the Republic of Armenia. They and their children are primarily Armenian speakers, and Spanish is difficult for them, the bishop said. He estimated that they may be 8-10,000 or more, but it is hard to be precise.

The Armenians tend to generally be middle class in Argentina, according to the bishop, who stressed, “The Armenians are an industrious people and there are very few who remain idle.” While the economic situation is in general very bad in the country, with high inflation, the majority of Argentine-Armenians remained attached to life in their country. He said that some young people go abroad for jobs, but many return.

There are a number of Armenian bakeries in the Palermo neighborhood, such as Middle Eastern Bakery and Confectionary (photo Aram Arkun)

The Armenian community appears well respected by Argentinians in general, Bishop Shaheenian said. As one indication of this, he pointed out that there are three levels of government in the country and all three have accepted and recognized the Armenian Genocide. April 24 is a holiday in Argentina and anyone who wishes can take that day off, though it is not obligatory.

You can even find parking with the tricolor and the name Armenia in the “little Armenia” of Buenos Aires (photo Aram Arkun)

The bishop noted that until around two years ago there was no Turkish or Azerbaijani community in Argentina, but recently it seems that their governments are trying to send their youth to Argentina for education.

The Armenian Diocese in particular enjoys good relations with the government. During the year, Shaheenian said, some 10 to 15 high-level government visitors such as ministers or deputies visit. On April 24, the head of the government and various ministers and deputies participate. Armenians both vote in elections and also rich families donate to politicians. When electoral campaigns begin, politicians begin to actively approach the Diocese and other organizations. For example, ten days before the elections, the current president visited the Diocese and had tea and coffee.

A number of Armenians have also achieved high positions in the Argentine government, including at the ministerial level, Bishop Shaheenian added. Two examples are the former Minister of Justice León Carlos Arslanian and the current Director of the Mint Cristina Tchintian.

Institutions

The majority of the Armenians live in the capital of Buenos Aires, and are very well organized, Bishop Shaheenian said. The diocese has six working churches in the city, including St. Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral (Palermo), Holy Cross of Varak Church (Flores), St. Paul (Liniers), St. James (Valentina Alsino), St. George (Vincente López) and Holy Trinity, a chapel in the Armenian cemetery of Buenos Aires.

There are six working clergymen including the Primate, who declared that at least two more were needed. It has not been possible to prepare Armenian clerics born in South America locally, he said. Consequently, they are requested from Echmiadzin.

When a cleric first arrives from Echmiadzin, Bishop Shaheenian said that he is first sent to Spanish language classes. He is made familiar with the local Armenian community over the first few months with the aid of someone appointed to help him.

There is also a Armenian Roman Catholic church, Our Lady of Narek Cathedral, which is the main church of the Armenian Eparchy of Saint Gregory of Narek of Buenos Aires, and several Protestant churches, including the Holy Trinity Armenian Evangelical Congregational Church and the Armenian Brotherhood Bible Church (Iglesia Cristiana Evangélica Armenia de la Hermandad).

Aside from churches, there are many organizations, including the Armenian General Benevolent Union (AGBU) and four Armenian political parties: the Armenian Revolutionary Federation (ARF), the Armenian Democratic Liberal Party, the Social Democrat Hnchakian Party, and the Armenian Progressives or Communists.

The Armenian General Benevolent Union Alex Manoogian Center and Marie Manoogian School on Armenia Street

These organizations have various affiliated groups. In the cultural realm, these include, listed in the abovementioned respective order of the political parties, the Hamazkayin Armenian Cultural and Educational Society, Tekeyan Cultural Association, Armenian Cultural Union Sharyum [Sharzhum], and the Armenian Cultural Union.

A classroom in the AGBU Marie Manoogian School of Buenos Aires (photo Aram Arkun)

Four local dance groups are of a high level. The Primate exclaimed, “I can say that they can compete in their quality with the dance groups of Armenia.” Nayiri is affiliated with the Armenian Relief Society, Kaiané to the Armenian Cultural Union, Masis to the Armenian Diocese, and Narek to the Armenian Catholic Church.

The AGBU Marie Manoogian School has excellent facilities, including a gymnasium (photo Aram Arkun)

There are many choirs connected to various Armenian institutions and schools. Gomidas Choir celebrated its 96th anniversary this year, for example. There are a number of youth groups, and AGBU and Homenetmen each have its own scout group.

The famous seventh floor swimming pool at the AGBU Marie Manoogian School (photo Aram Arkun)

Tadrón Theater is a theater and workshop café in the Palermo neighborhood near all the other Armenian institutions founded by Kalusd and Herminia Jansezian in 1996. It presents both Armenian and non-Armenian themed plays, often focusing on human rights and other social themes.

There are online newspapers or periodicals like the trilingual (Armenian, Spanish and English) dailies Sardarabad (Tekeyan Cultural Association), Diario Armenia (ARF) and the bilingual (Armenian and Spanish) Nor Sevan (Armenian Cultural Union), available through their websites, the blogspot Guia Armenia and the Spanish-language monthly Dibet.

The Aintab Compatriotic Union (photo Aram Arkun)

There are compatriotic unions of Armenians from Aintab, Hajin and Marash.

The Marash Compatriotic Union (photo Aram Arkun)

Bishop Shaheenian noted that there are multiple Armenian radio stations, which are not in daily operation but usually broadcast on Saturdays and Sundays to provide Armenian news and cultural information in Spanish. There are no television or cable programs, but the radio stations also use YouTube and Facebook.

There is a small home for the elderly in Buenos Aires, sponsored by the Armenian Relief Society, called la Casa de Descanso Onnig Bodourian – Ohannés Diarbekirian. The Primate said that every Friday or Saturday morning, Armenian clergy go to spend time with the elderly, talking, playing backgammon or praying, and once a month they conduct the divine liturgy.

Bishop Shaheenian observed that the Armenian Diocese tries to help all the different Armenian organizations in Argentina in order to strengthen Armenian identity and the community. Moreover, a structure was created to bring together all community organizations to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Genocide in 2015, and this coordination, called Armenian Institutions of the Republic of Argentina (IARA), continues to date.

There is an embassy of the Republic of Armenia in Buenos Aires, and honorary consulates in the cities of Rosario and Cordoba, and Armenia Fund has an office in Buenos Aires too.

Schools

There are seven Armenian schools in Buenos Aires: Instituto San Gregorio el Iluminador [St. Gregory the Illuminator Institute], Colegio Armenio [Arzruní Armenian College], Instituto Isaac Bakchellian, and Colegio Armenio de Vicente López belong to the Armenian Diocese; Instituto Mary Manoogian (AGBU); Colegio Armenio Jrimian [Khrimian Armenian College] (ARF), and Colegio Mekhitarista (Armenian Catholic).

All the above schools include levels from pre-kindergarten to high school except the Instituto Isaac Bakchellian, which does not go beyond primary school.

Instituto Educativo San Gregorio El Iluminador, the Armenian school of St. Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral, with the cathedral to its left and the Tekeyan Cultural Association headquarters to its right (photo Aram Arkun)

According to Bishop Shaheenian, there are between 280-320 students in each of the four Diocesan schools in Buenos Aires, totally somewhere around 1,200 to 1,300 in the four. The AGBU school is also a large one with many students.

The Armenian General Benevolent Union Alex Manoogian Center and Marie Manoogian School on Armenia Street

He said that the Diocese sends a cleric to visit the school in Vincente López, one to St. Gregory the Illuminator, and one to the AGBU school daily to bless the food at lunch, remain till the end of the meal and lead a prayer of thanks afterwards. There is a shortage of clergy and the other Armenian Apostolic schools in Buenos Aires are more distant, so it is not possible to reach them daily, but Diocesan clergy visit at least once a month.

In the school of the Diocesan cathedral, St. Gregory the Illuminator Institute, Bishop Shaheenian said that the first part of the school day until noon is all in Spanish. After lunch, all lessons are in Armenian. Armenian history, geography, culture, language, literature, dance and song are taught for 3-4 hours. The teachers and administrators are all Armenian in the second part of the day, and there are different directors and teachers for the first part.

At St. Gregory, around 40 percent of the students are from families recently immigrated from the Republic of Armenia, so they speak fluent Eastern Armenian, Shaheenian said. They receive lessons in Eastern Armenian, as opposed to the Western Armenian used for the other students.

At present, the bishop estimated that perhaps fifty percent of the younger generation overall still speaks Armenian. Community events generally are done in Armenian, he said, but often they are conducted in two languages, depending on the type of audience. Of course, if they are aimed at non-Armenian Argentinians, they will be conducted solely in Spanish. He stressed that the church and community organizations try to keep the Armenian language and culture alive so that the new generations can be educated.

Students serve as waiters and dance at the AGBU Marie Manoogian School hall during Friday and Saturday special dinners in order to raise money for the annual end of year trip to Armenia (photo Aram Arkun)

The Diocesan schools do not offer Saturday or Sunday schools for Armenian (though the Holy Trinity Armenian Evangelical Congregational School does according to its website).  Bishop Shaheenian said that those youth who do not attend Armenian schools must learn the language from their families. Some prosperous families prefer to send their children to English, French, German or American schools for career reasons, thinking that the amount of Armenian they learned at home was sufficient.

The Diocese does do outreach through social media and offers classes on topics such as the liturgy and the bible.

A khachkar or cross-stone erected in 2009 in memory of the fighters for the freedom of Artsakh, near the Armenian cathedral and its school (photo Aram Arkun)

According to Argentine law, the Armenian schools cannot exclude non-Armenians as students. Consequently, schools in some neighborhoods like Flores or Valentín Alsina from which part of the Armenian population has moved out to Palermo now have a 40-60 percent non-Armenian student body, the bishop said. However, the St. Gregory the Illuminator School run by the Diocese and the AGBU school each have around 90 percent Armenian students, with 10 or less percent non-Armenians, because their Palermo neighborhood has many Armenians who send their children there.

Cordoba and Smaller Communities

After Buenos Aires, Cordoba is the Argentine city with the next largest Armenian community. It does not have as many Armenians living there as in the past, Bishop Shaheenian said, with around 10-15,000 there today, with many being 4th or even 5th generation Argentinians.

Cordoba’s St. George Armenian Church is the first Armenian church founded in South America. Bishop Shaheenian said that he recently spent 4 or 5 days there to help celebrate the 99th anniversary of the community and the church. Next year its centenary will be celebrated. There is also an Armenian Brotherhood Bible Church in Cordoba called Iglesia Evangelica Armenia Maranatha.

Cordoba is the only other city besides Buenos Aires in Argentina with an Armenian school: Instituto General Manuel Belgrano: Colegio Armenio.

The Primate estimated that around 40 percent of the youth in Cordoba speak Armenian, though a higher percentage speak among those 50 years old and older because of the influence of their parents and grandparents.

Armenian community life is similar to that of Buenos Aires, though there are fewer Armenian organizations in Cordoba. The main ones, the bishop said, are the church, the AGBU and the ARF Antranig Club. The AGBU has scout, athletic and dance groups (there is only one dance group in the city but all participate). Homenetmen and the Armenian Relief Society are also active.

Various types of events are organized. If it is a dance, 3-400 people might come, and church events also may reach the same number, the Primate said. When various protests were organized in favor of the Republic of Armenia or during Artsakh war, larger numbers participated, from one to three thousand, as the 4th or 5th generation Cordoban Armenians join together in order to defend Armenian identity and the homeland.

There are much smaller Armenian communities in Mar del Plata; La Plata (the capital city of Buenos Aires province), Rosario, Mendoza and Berisso.

They each have their local councils or executives which assemble local Armenians. The small communities rent or buy a small place and call it Hay Dun [Armenian Home], the bishop said. Once a month or even once a week they have Armenian food cooked and come together.

Once or twice a year, clerics from Buenos Aires come to conduct the divine liturgy, he added. Major holidays like Easter or Christmas are celebrated, as well as the founding of the local community, and sometimes April 24. If the bishop cannot come, he sends a priest, but for important events, all clergy come together from Buenos Aires.

Dance groups or choirs also are sent from Buenos Aires to participate in some of the events in these cities.

As Mar del Plata is on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, in the summer many Armenians go there so that a big event as well as church services are held there by several clergymen.

There is a suburb about 40 minutes or one hour distant from Buenos Aires called Club de Campo Armenia, which is like a gated American community or country club, with its own private security, golf course, soccer field, and large houses or villas. The Primate estimated that there are around 200 homes there. In 2015, an Armenian Genocide memorial was erected there and there is a club house. Only Armenians live here.

He noted that Armenians also have their own soccer team, Deportivo Armenio, the president of which is Armenian, and it is located in the town of Ingeniero Maschwitz, where it has a stadium.

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