Pagharch, or kata without filling. Photos courtesy https://www.houshamadyan.org/mapottomanempire/vilayet-of-bitlispaghesh/sassoun/local-characteristics/cuisine.html

Houshamadyan’s Pagharch, or Kata without Filling

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“Houshamadyan is non-profit association founded in Berlin, Germany, in 2010. It has a basic mission: to reconstruct and preserve the memory of Armenian life in the Ottoman Empire through research. The Houshamadyan Association has determined that this website, www.houshamadyan.org, will be the most suitable means to showcase the results of the Association’s work. For this reason, Houshamadyan Association’s primary aim is to maintain, finance, develop, expand, finalize, and enrich this website. At present, Houshamadyan is primarily financed by individual gifts and donations. We hope that many of our visitors will be encouraged to make a small donation to show their appreciation for our work.”

“Our research encompasses all aspects of the history of Armenians in the Ottoman Empire, including social history, the history of daily life, local microhistories, dialects, music, literature, tangible culture, and more. We are especially interested in collecting and preserving culturally valuable artifacts of all kinds produced by Ottoman Armenians, including musical recordings of historical value, old photographs, old film footage, and more. Equally important to our work are documents pertaining to Ottoman Armenian history, such as printed books, periodicals, and archival materials; as well as papers in individual collections, such as correspondence, unpublished notes, official documents, autobiographical details, etc. The contents of such collections can be scanned at high resolution and submitted to our editorial team for review. Moreover, we are highly interested in chronicling and documenting oral history by recording interviews and testimonies.”

“Once this website takes its final form, the Houshamadyan Association will organize scholarly conferences, lectures and exhibitions focusing on the above-mentioned themes pertaining to the Armenians of the Ottoman Empire. Our future work will also include the publication of specialist works on relevant themes. Materials already published on our website will be selected, re-edited, and enriched for publication.”

“This website will be pivotal to Houshamadyan’s mission. We are convinced that the internet is the most practical, influential, and direct means of carrying out the wide scope of work required to reconstruct Ottoman Armenian memory. Moreover, it is our aim to create a collaborative site where each individual visitor can have the ability to make comments or submit memory objects that are in his or her possession – photographs, books, memoirs, etc. Thus, the website can grow and thrive collaboratively. Visitors will be able to electronically submit materials to our editorial team.”

An Armenian family from Gelyeguzan. (Source: Raymond H. Kévorkian, Paul B. Paboudjian, Les Arméniens dans l’Empire Ottoman à la veille du génocide, Paris)

Sassoun – Cuisine

Author Sonia Tashjian featured this traditional recipe at Houshamadyan on May 16, 2018. It was translated by Vahe Habeshian: “Sassoun is a district of the state of Aghtznik [of historical Great Armenia]. The plain to its south is the broad basin of Diarbekir, which the locals refer to as the Lower Plain, and to the north is the Plain of Moush, termed the Upper Plain. Along with the rest of Daron province, Sassoun has an abundance of water: It has large and small lakes, and because of copious amounts of rain and snow many rivulets form in the mountains, and myriad streams and rivers flow down their high peaks. Some of those flow through the territory of Sassoun, including Meghraked [Honey river], Dalvorig river, Sousanna river, Khodzodzvanki chour [Water of Khodzodz Monastery], Zandous stream, Khlhovid stream, Khoutachour [Water of Khout], etc.”

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“Sassoun also has a wealth of dense, large forests. The most common trees are species of oak; also abundant are poplars and willows. The higher elevations are void of fruit-bearing trees, but in the southern regions many types of fruit orchards and vineyards are abundant.”

“In the spring and summer months, the women gather wild mushrooms and varieties of greens (gangar [artichoke], khavurdzil [rhubarb], sbidgoug [possibly, white eremurus], mandag [parsnip chervil], skhdoroug [crow garlic], etc.), some of which they sell; with the remaining wild greens they prepare fritters, salads, and soups, as well as pickling them or drying them for use during the long winters. For home use they extract oil from linseed, hemp, and the tree called mrgit, and for cooking they extract oil from walnuts and the berries of the nettle tree (hackberries).”

“Sassoun cuisine boasts an abundance of kata (a soda bread) assortments and appellations. Katas are prepared on all occasions — holidays, happy or sad events, during summer migrations, and for daily consumption. They vary from each other only slightly; for example, there are those without khoriz (filling), those that are salty, those that are sweet, etc. Havtousi is the kata the filling of which is layered. Tzagh kata is a type that has embroidery-like decorations and is brought as a gift by wedding guests who visit the groom for yeresbak [“face-kiss”]. Goghadz [“sided”] kata is a type baked against the scorching-hot internal wall of a tandoor.”

“The summer-residence cuisine is unique. On the first day there, they prepare a halva called chacharoun, and in the fall, when they will return the flocks home, they cook harisa [a meat and grain porridge]. Every day, the women prepare kva by heating milk and adding whipped yogurt to it; the boiling milk curdles, and they then add the curds to a pouch or sack to drain. The resulting kva is eaten in lieu of daily bread. Also delicious is poshe [powder] kata [a type of soda bread with a flour-based sweet filling], which the lady of the house bakes in the ashes of the outdoor oven/stove.”

Pagharch, or kata without filling

Ingredients:

1/2 cup clarified butter

1 cup yogurt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 tablespoon vinegar

2-3 cups flour

1 egg (for egg wash)

 

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 350°F with the oven rack in the center.

Mix the yogurt, baking soda, and vinegar, then beat together with the butter; gradually add the flour in small amounts, mixing and kneading until a soft dough forms that doesn’t stick to the fingers. Place the dough in a baking pan, apply egg wash, and bake.

Sweet Kata

Sweet Kata

Ingredients:

12 cup clarified butter

1 cup yogurt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 tablespoon vinegar

2-3 cups flour

1 egg (for egg wash)

For the filling:

1/2 cups flour

1/3 cup clarified butter

1/3 cup beet syrup (or honey)

 

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 350°F with the oven rack in the center. Line baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Mix the yogurt, baking soda, and vinegar, then beat together with the butter; gradually add the flour in small amounts, mixing and kneading until a soft dough forms that doesn’t stick to the fingers. Also prepare the filling, combining the ingredients and using the fingers to rub and mix them together. Divide the kata dough into two portions; roll out the dough with a rolling pin, add and distribute the filling on one disk of dough, cover with the other disk, apply egg wash, and bake.

See:

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10155629227930794&set=a.286561815793

https://www.houshamadyan.org/themes/local-characteristics/cuisine.html

https://www.houshamadyan.org/mapottomanempire/vilayet-of-bitlispaghesh/sassoun.html

For these recipes, go to: https://www.houshamadyan.org/mapottomanempire/vilayet-of-bitlispaghesh/sassoun/local-characteristics/cuisine.html

For information, go to: https://www.houshamadyan.org/introduction/what-is-houshamadyan.html

Houshamadyan donations can be made to:

Houshamadyan Educational Association

38228 Lana Drive

Farmington Hills, MI 48335

Website: https://www.houshamadyan.org/home.html

Email: houshamadyan@gmail.com

To support: https://www.houshamadyan.org/support-us.html

For the Open Digital Archive, go to: https://www.houshamadyan.org/oda.html

Partners: https://www.houshamadyan.org/partners.html

Donors: https://www.houshamadyan.org/donors.html

Acknowledgements from Sonia Tashjian:

“I’m indebted to the following women who have roots in Sassoun and live in Armenia’s Ashnak and Katnaghbiur villages, which are populated by Sassountsis. With enthusiasm and fondness, they vividly described the food culture of Sassoun they have inherited from their predecessors.”

Including:

  • Knarik Haroutiounian (roots in Sassoun’s Jrtnig village; father-in-law, from Mushkegh)
  • Valia Kirakosian (Shenig village, the granddaughter of the fedayi Cholo)
  • Siranoush Mkhitarian (Krmav village)
  • Sofia Mkhitarian (Krmav village)
  • Arous Mesropi Hovhannisian Asatrian (whose ancestor was Agha Korke Dzour of Sassoun’s Jman village)

 

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