Endlessly Fascinating Iran

Isfahan is another jewel — a city with a subtle European air. The palaces of Shah Abbas (Chehel Sotoun and Ali Qapu), Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the Great Mosque, and the historic bazaar immerse you in the grandeur of the former Persian capital. But for us Armenians, the New Julfa district holds a special place in our hearts, with the Holy Savior Monastery (Vank) and its two museums showcasing the Armenian contribution to Iranian history and culture. Nearby stand the Holy Bethlehem Church, an Armenian school, and Armenian heard in the streets. In a small square, I greet the bust of my late acquaintance, film critic Zaven Ghookasian — a sign of Iran’s respect for worthy individuals, regardless of ethnicity. 

There are no longer Armenians in Hamadan, the birthplace of famed singers Hovhannes Badalyan and Viguen Terterian, known as the “Sultan of Iranian Pop.” Still, the connection to Armenia persists — in the Ganjnameh inscriptions of King Darius (written in three languages, including a reference to Urartu-Armenia), the ancient city of Ecbatana, the awe-inspiring Behistun reliefs with Hercules and the tale of Armenian beauty Shirin and Persian Farhad, immortalized by Nizami. At Tagh-e Bostan, Sassanian kings are carved into rock, surprisingly flanked by large angelic figures. And among the ruins of the temple of the goddess Anahita, a splendid bust of the deity survives. 

In Lalejin, a ceramics hub, local artisans create clay treasures for the world. A visit to Ali Sadr Cave, with its glowing walls and boat ride through surreal, dreamlike waters, adds yet another dimension to the experience. 

Finally, Tabriz greets us with its sprawling 4-kilometer bazaar, bursting with goods of every kind. The journey ends with one last wonder — the Kandovan cave village, where residents live in rock-hewn homes equipped with modern amenities. 

But even these marvels would be incomplete without the joyful camaraderie of fellow travelers: strangers who become friends, sharing laughter, songs, and stories on the bus. Add to this the delicious Iranian food and especially the sweets, and the picture is complete. 

The people of Iran are curious and kind to visitors. With relatively few tourists, locals are eager to engage. When we sing and dance in the streets, people join to the joy immediately. Strangers of all ages approach us with asking “Verar yufrom?” and cheerfully adding, “Velkom to Iran!” Often, that’s all they say — and it’s enough. We’re moved, too, by how frequently we hear expressions of respect toward Armenians. At one hotel, a man overheard our conversation and came over to say he deeply admired Armenians and hoped Armenia would soon join the European Union. 

The driving force behind these trips is George Abrahamian, who has been organizing a minimum of eight bus tours to Iran annually for the past 15 years. Thanks to him, around 3,000 people from Armenia — and beyond — have discovered Iran. Many, like me, return again and again, unable to resist the call of this endlessly fascinating country.