Diane Boyajian's Braided Bread (Tami Boyajian photo)

Diane Boyajian’s Braided Bread

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Serving Fresno’s St. Paul Armenian Church was something Diane Boyajian learned at a young age. One of her fondest memories of her mother, Helen Shehrian, took place around 1943 at the church which was then located at Santa Clara and L. Streets. There were no crosses on the altar curtains, so one day, her mother obtained permission, got on a ladder, took her needle and thread, and sewed crosses on each curtain as little Diane watched on in amazement. Growing up, church services, Sunday school, Armenian Church Youth Organization (ACYO), and parish dinners were part of Diane’s childhood. Her talented mother was often the first to volunteer, and would help with many church activities with her young children in tow. She recalls her mother helping with anything and everything, and, of course, there was always lots of cooking and baking in the church kitchen.

In 1949, Diane was a charter member of the first Junior ACYO at St. Paul Church, and held various positions including president. When she was 15, she met a handsome young man named York Boyajian, who was a member of the Senior ACYO. York and Diane later became close friends, and when he offered Diane the keys to drive his beloved red convertible Chevy, everyone knew it was serious. The couple was married in 1957 at St. Paul Church, and their marriage was blessed with three children, Tamara, David, and Karen.

As Diane settled into life with her husband and children on their farm, serving in various positions at church remained important to her. She joined the Junior Ladies Society in 1967, and was elected as vice president within one year. One of her early efforts was chairing the annual Mother’s Day Luncheon, a signature event of the Ladies Society. “We invited all the mothers, in-laws, and grandmothers to enjoy a homemade Armenian meal together,” Diane says.  She and her committee planned the menu, purchased the food, decorated the hall, prepared the dishes, and often served over 200 guests on each holiday. “It was an amazing experience to see so many men and women come together every year to honor their cherished mothers and grandmothers at our church.”

Diane became involved with the Raisin Wives of California, where she served as president for four terms. “At that time, the organization worked to promote Fresno raisins locally and globally while providing scholarships to agricultural students at Reedley College and Fresno State, and running a country store each fall,” she says. Guided by the guidance from her mother, Diane continued to improve her cooking skills and prepare family recipes. She would often consult the Ladies Society Procedure Books, the binders that documented cherished recipes, measurements, and instructions for cooking and serving at the church. When St. Paul Church hosted the California State Assembly gathering for the Diocese, she agreed to coordinate the menus for over 400 attendees. “Three days of breakfast, lunch and dinner events were managed with a remarkable committee, solid organizational and management skills, and the gift of making outstanding Armenian food,” she says.

Through the years, Diane has cooked for many Mother’s Day luncheons, the annual Blessing of the Grapes Picnic, and California State Assembly meetings. One of her favorite meals was for the annual luncheon for members of the California Armenian Home in Fresno. Diane and her fellow members planned an authentic Armenian menu that the residents were invited to enjoy with their families. After eating a plate of traditional dolma and madzoon one year, one of the elderly residents said to Diane, “This is just like my mother used to make for us.” For Diane, that was the sweetest thing you could say to her. Diane taught Sunday school and served on the Parish Council for 14 years. She is grateful for the close friends she has enjoyed at her church, and for her three loving children and four grandchildren.

“In the true Armenian tradition of abundance, our appetites and our church have been blessed by Diane and her countless contributions through the years,” says Ladies Society member Tracy Beberian.

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This is one of her favorite recipes for braided bread Diane has made for over 30 years. “The dough is from an authentic bierocks recipe. It came to me from my sister’s in-laws who are Russian-Germans and who lived in Fresno. One day, I had extra dough so I made a loaf of this bread. It was so good I use it as a bread recipe now. Bierock is a yeast dough pastry pocket sandwich with savory filling, originating in Russia, she adds. The dish is common among the Volga German community in the United States and Argentina. It was brought to the United States in the 1870s by German Russian Mennonite immigrants. The bierock originated in Russia, and is known there as pirogi. It spread throughout eastern Europe, constant in form but changing in name.”

“I often take this bread to church bake sales, and everyone loves it. I even use this recipe and form it into Armenian chorag, it is very tasty,” she adds.

Diane Boyajian (Photo credit Tami Boyajian)

Ingredients:

2 envelopes yeast (about 2 scant tablespoons)

1 cup warm water

1 tablespoon sugar

Combine yeast, water and sugar in a medium bowl, and set aside to proof, until it starts bubbling.

Dough:

1 cup scalded milk

1 cube butter (add butter to the scalded milk and let cool)

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

2 large eggs, beaten

6 – 6 1/2 cups King Arthur Flour*

1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water for egg wash

 

Preparation:

Combine the cooled milk/butter mixture with salt, sugar, and eggs.

Here’s Diane’s process for the next step: “In a large bowl, I put in the milk/butter, sugar, eggs, and salt, and beat well with an electric mixer. Then I add the proofed yeast mixture and beat well again. I start adding the flour, about one cup at a time, and beat in with the mixer. After two or so cups of flour, the dough gets too thick so I start using a spatula until I can get my hand in to begin kneading. I add the last cup of flour a little at a time; when the dough feels sticky to the touch but doesn’t stick to your hands, it is ready.”

Place kneaded dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise until double the size, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

 

For the bread:

Divide dough into 3 or 4 portions, each will be a loaf. Shape as desired; brush with egg wash. Let dough rise again on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

For the braids: Divide each portion of dough into thirds, make ropes about 12 to 14 inches long and braid. Tuck in ends. Bake at 350ºF for 15-18 minutes, until golden brown. Do not overbake. Test as you would for a cake, and let cool on racks. Makes 4 small loaves or 3 large loaves.

*This story originally appeared in the St. Paul Armenian Church Dajar Newsletter, July/August 2021 edition. The story is contributed by Tracy Beberian, and has been updated for this publication.

For questions or to donate, contact:

St. Paul Armenian Church

3767 N. First Street

Fresno, CA  93726

Phone: (559) 226-6343

ORDER TODAY: Some of Diane’s favorite recipes are featured in this church cookbook. To purchase A Taste of Fresno Armenian and American Cuisine Cookbook for holiday gifts for family and friends, contact: St. Paul Armenian Church, 3767 N. First St, Fresno, California 93726, (559) 226-6343. Each cookbook costs $20.00 each plus shipping and handling. Make checks payable to: St. Paul Armenian Church Ladies Society.

 

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