SOUTHFIELD, Mich. — “In our family, chemen (or chaimen) was used to flavor more foods than just basterma (or basturma),” said Nancy Horasanian Kazarian. Her family recipe for chemen was passed down from her beloved grandmother, Haiganoush Baylerian Sarkisian. Nancy grew up in her “maireeg’s” house in Highland Park, Mich., “She insisted I watch while she made many traditional Armenian foods and baked goods for our family dinners. Maireeg was Sepastatzi, and she taught me how to make sou beoreg, katah (which she called teroun pagharch), and all sorts of Armenian delicacies.”
According to producer and director, Nigol Bezjian, Armenians who survived the 1915 Genocide brought basturma with them to the Middle East. Bezjian recalls his grandmother used to prepare “basturma omelets fried in olive oil with pieces of lavash bread.” He notes that Armenians from Kayseri were particularly renowned basturma producers. In Palestine, where Armenians have lived for 2,000 years, Armenian families gather on New Year’s Eve and eat traditional foods including basturma, çiğ köfte and a traditional Anatolian confection called kaghtsr sujukh (քաղցր սուջուխ). Basturma-topped pizza is served in many Armenian-owned pizzerias in the Baltic capitals, in Yerevan, Los Angeles, or Boston. Basturma sandwiches are common in many cities around the world. And you can find it sold whole or thinly sliced in Armenian-owned grocery stores in Buenos Aires, Montevideo, Sidney, Tehran, Moscow, and far beyond. “Fenugreek seeds are one of the ingredients used by the Armenian Church to make Muron (Chrism) since 301 AD,” he adds.
An aromatic spice blend from Armenia, chemen is a mix of fenugreek, paprika, cumin, salt, cayenne pepper, and garlic. It is often used with cured meats such as basterma. Basterma is best served as part of a mezze platter with pita triangles, grape leaves, Armenian string cheese, cured olives, slices of ripe tomatoes and cold crisp cucumbers. It is delicious diced and mixed into scrambled eggs or left in strips and served in place of bacon or ham.
Nancy’s family used this chemen recipe when they made basterma at home, but they also enjoyed it in other ways. “We added chemen to our lamb stew with green beans, and to dolma for a different flavor. For a treat, we’d spread it on our homemade lavash.” Her mother, Rose Sarkisian Mardossian, even created a katah appetizer by sprinkling chopped basterma over the rolled-out dough, then shaping and cutting into small rolls to be served as part of a mezze.
Nancy married Sam Kazarian, an Air Force pilot, and they lived in Holland and Germany. When they returned stateside and settled in Sam‘s hometown of Racine, Wisconsin, she became a proficient Armenian cook and baker. Making chemen brought back fond memories of being in the kitchen with her mother and grandmother who, sadly, passed away while Nancy and Sam were overseas.
At almost 90 years of age, Nancy continues to make Armenian foods and baked goods, “As she was about to sail to America, my grandmother made a promise to her father-in-law that she would not lose touch with her Armenian customs and faith. She was determined to raise her children, grandchildren and all who came after with the knowledge of Armenian traditions and pride in their heritage, especially their religion.” Today, there are 87 young and old family members who remain close to each other and celebrate their Armenian culture instilled by Haiganoush Sarkisian.
