Bourj Hammoud Reclaims Historic Role

These trades passed from father to son, from master to apprentice, or within orphanages. “Through the hard work of the refugees, what was first just a tent camp gradually became an urban center, and also one of the most densely populated districts in the Middle East. It was also one of the main centers of economic activity,” she related.

Strong Sense of Armenian Identity

The speaker revealed that she discovered Bourj Hammoud “long after” she had left Lebanon for America. Visiting the area in 2000, she said she found in Bourj Hammoud “a human scale and authenticity that was lacking elsewhere. I was struck by the strong sense of identity, the persistence of everything that was authentically Armenian, from the food and spices to the very warmth of the residents.”

She reported that she started by visiting the Cahl organization, initially an institute for the blind which became a home for the elderly. There she met Rosa Tcholakian born in Dyarbekir in 1914, Zvart Zournadjian born in Kharpert in the1920s, and Ossana Soulian born in Kessab, Syria in 1922, “all of whom spoke very little.” The speaker related that she also accompanied Armenian Red Cross Lokh social workers who helped young students with learning disabilities, and went with church ladies to visit destitute Armenians.

Because she was chastised during her Beirut exhibition for showing such sad pictures, and not focusing instead on successful Armenians whom she was told “rode BMW’s and wore Rolex watches,” the speaker reported that she decided to concentrate on presenting subjects that she “felt had a personal connection” to her.

Among the 21 successful individuals she profiled was Boghos Svadjian with the nickname of Boghos Kalashnikov for using the Russian-made rifle to defend his neighborhood during the 1975-1990 Lebanese civil war. An actor, and a fisherman, he sells his catch and prepares sushi for clients and restaurants. Sculptor Ashod Terzian teaches art, plays the accordion, and has a shop “like a museum” where he has made sculptures of Lebanese politicians.

Then there is 84-year-old Abraham Baklayan who had a men’s clothing shop that was plundered and burnt down during the 1975 civil war. He now sells lace napkins and tablecloths out of a makeshift sheet metal shop. And 40-year-old Jacques Ghazarian whose family hailed from Marash, Turkey, is following the family tradition of baking Armenian specialties. He has turned his family bakery into a flourishing business.

Jeanne Kitsinian, an 80-year-old woman, along with Krikor Kabakian in the US, makes religious vestments, capes, and mitres, and sells them on the internet to Armenian congregations worldwide. Hagop “Jackson” Keshesian, almost 70, follows in his father’s shoe business, making orthopedic and dancing shoes, as well as horseback riding boots to customers who live as far away as Los Angeles. And 29-year-old Krikor Jabotian is a fashion designer who employs 20 people. His award-winning designs are worn by celebrities and brides. A fan of legendary filmmaker Sergei Paradjanov, he also designs stage costumes and jewelry.

During the question-and-answer session, the speaker revealed that though Bourj Hammoud today is still an area of thriving businesses, many of the Armenian youth are leaving, and the area is now mainly inhabited by elderly Armenians. Also, Armenians from Aleppo, Syria, are coming in due to the devastating civil war. But, she declared, as in decades past, with their lives disrupted several times, Armenians, as shown by these portraits “are always able to bounce back, and revitalize.”

The director of the Zohrab Center, the Very Rev. Fr. Daniel Findikyan, expressed appreciation to Ms. Ateshian Delacampagne for her intriguing presentation. Fr. Findikyan, who planned and organized this season’s successful Zohrab Center programs, announced that starting in the fall, the Zohrab Center will present a new series of interesting lectures, poetry and films.